Adventures of Ange WWOOFing, Backpacking and Other Unsupervised Travel tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-10-04:/blog/?domain=ange 2007-05-18T14:49:00Z mythxation img/travel-blog-feed.png Oh Canada tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-05-18:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=26&entryid=61520 2007-05-18T14:49:00Z 2007-05-18T14:49:00Z Well folks. I'm home. I wanted to post one last entry to give a bit of closure to my trip and to do a bit of reflection on my experiences in the past months. Lets start with some basic stats: 15-Number of international flights I took. 11-Number of 5 hour or more train rides I took 10- Times I had a private room 9-Times I got seriously lost 8-Different brands of beer I tried 7-Countries I have been wrongly assumed to be a prostitute in. 6-The ... Well folks. I'm home. I wanted to post one last entry to give a bit of closure to my trip and to do a bit of reflection on my experiences in the past months.

Lets start with some basic stats:
15-Number of international flights I took.
11-Number of 5 hour or more train rides I took
10- Times I had a private room
9-Times I got seriously lost
8-Different brands of beer I tried
7-Countries I have been wrongly assumed to be a prostitute in.
6-The number of months I went without wearing deoderant.
5-Number of items I still have from when I left home- backpack, sleeping bag, underwear, journal, passport (this is all I really need to live!)
4- Times I got on a train and accidentally sat in first class, only to be shamefully demoted to the rear cabins upon ticket inspection.
3-Days I spent living in the Madrid airport.
2-People I met that were my age.
1-Number of times I rode a donkey.

I have met people from Madagascar to Japan to Argentina. They've been teachers, boy scouts, salesmen, prostitutes, donkeys, lawyers, hobos, students, hippies, buddhists, muslims, DJs, poker champions, forest elves, IT guys, farmers, clothing designers, violinists, homemakers, models.

I was AnGEEEEla, Gela, Malika, Pakeza, Rasta Woman, Sitr Git, and above all, a damn GOOD flavour smeller.

I've drank rot in Germany, wodka in Poland, kahve in Turkey, absinthe in Italy, Port wine in Portugal and Berber whiskey in Morocco.

I've driven illegally, jaywalked, illegally associated with locals, trespassed, black ridden public transport, smoked hashish, forged signatures, and was the technical half of a major weapon smuggling.... I mean... nothing.

I'd like to list my lowest points....
-24 hour consecutive vomit-a-thon in Rome
-Feverish and sick on Gran Canaria
-Losing my half-filled sketchbook of all kinds of buildings people and places!
-Let's just say... "The Marrakech Marauder", "The Turkish Chase" and "The Portuguese Masturbator"
-Getting money and bank card stolen in Heathrow

And the highlights....
-Roadtrip with Aussie Rasta Nat in Turkey
-The sunny Essaouira beach with my Moroccan love
-First night at Beneficio, commune in Spain, out of the rain and into the tipi, an oasis of drumming, tea, fire, warmth, song and dance
-My first tree-picked mango on Gran Canaria
-The Alcazar in Sevilla
-Picking wild camomile in Turkey
-My first bar beer with Shanti on Gran Canaria at Puerto Nieves
-The sound of the Selcuk prayer call at dusk

I've learned so much about money, being humble and being ignorant and wrong, about planning ahead and siezing the day. About poverty and affluence, about globalization and world issues. I've learned about religion and history. I've learned about myself, my family, and Canada, ironically.

I am home now and I have forgotten where I keep my CDs and how to make hemp bracelets. I am amazed at being able to speak to anyone how I like and be understood. I would love to share all my of experiences and specific moments with all of you, but my jaw would fall off. Above all know this: I had a great time. And I can't wait to jump on a plane again.

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Birthday in Auschwitz tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-05-11:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=25&entryid=60242 2007-05-11T10:25:34Z 2007-05-11T10:25:34Z Okay. So After Frankfurt I popped into Krakow for two days, nothing much occurred except exploration of the beautiful city centre and around. There is a huge main square and tons of cafes, restaurants and bars at the perimeter and in the surrounding streets. Outside of the main old town is a ring of trees, fountains and peaceful trails, a park full circle. I met in Krakow a Canadian. We had a conversation that lasted for five ... Okay. So After Frankfurt I popped into Krakow for two days, nothing much occurred except exploration of the beautiful city centre and around. There is a huge main square and tons of cafes, restaurants and bars at the perimeter and in the surrounding streets. Outside of the main old town is a ring of trees, fountains and peaceful trails, a park full circle.

I met in Krakow a Canadian. We had a conversation that lasted for five days, from Krakow to Budapest... it spanned night, day, restaurants and streets, philosophy, art, life, emotion. Budapest was brilliant, we did a lot of pointless walking, and it seemed everywhere we went we did not find what we were looking for, or things were closed on the day we went. It kind of felt like a failed attempt at seeing the city, the best part was the vegetarian restaurants we found, and the CDs Christian bought me for my birthday. The hostels were great as well... in the first we had a Bob Marley themed room!

So I hit a train back to Krak, arriving yesterday morning sleepless. It was my birthday. I decided to visit Auschwitz, partly for purposeful irony, partly for lack of time to see it otherwise. What can I say, it was heavy. I found a relative in the book recording Poles in the camp. I took a bus back to the hostel, as soon as I stepped in the door, I was invited out by a hostel worker guy... anyways after drinking a bit and playing dirty jenga, we headed out to a few bars. Ended up spending most of the time at a Latino club celebrating the death day of Bob Marley... on my birthday?! CLEARLY I am the reincarnation of Marley Himself! Anyways the reggae was good and the vodka shots flowed. I came back to the hostel for a few drunken emails and hit the bunk.

Today is a huge festival for students... the square is PACKED, everyone is dressed up; there are communists, trees, old women, bagels, vikings, cavemen, ancient romans, hippies... everything in between. I am overlooking the fest from the window, debating whether or not to join the chaos... I walked with the parade from the university earlier... the 15 minute walk took over two hours! I love Polish people.

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On the Rhein tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-05-03:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=24&entryid=58771 2007-05-03T11:52:46Z 2007-05-03T11:52:46Z So I left Selcuk. I almost cried, saying goodbye to Enis, the Kurdish carpet shop owner. Said goodbye to Mehmet and his gorgeous son Hakan who own Ejder restaurant the night before, and Mazen the next day, as he helped me find the bus to the airport. Everyone is so sweet there... I got numerous job offers, it was truly hard to leave. So I arrived in Frankfurt yesterday. I woke up with an older woman sleeping ... So I left Selcuk. I almost cried, saying goodbye to Enis, the Kurdish carpet shop owner. Said goodbye to Mehmet and his gorgeous son Hakan who own Ejder restaurant the night before, and Mazen the next day, as he helped me find the bus to the airport. Everyone is so sweet there... I got numerous job offers, it was truly hard to leave.

So I arrived in Frankfurt yesterday. I woke up with an older woman sleeping in the bunk under me, she is from Boston, and spent a good chunk of time arguing with me about what and where the great lakes were. Excuse me?

Frankfurt is a pretty city, very... German. Clean, smooth and efficient. It feels large and spacious. The people can be quite cold, especially compared to what I experienced in Turkey. But everyone is quite helpful so far and I have had no problems. I did a kind of walking tour earlier this morning in the sun, passed by the main shopping district filled with boutiques and beautiful things. There is nutella everywhere. And I found a nice salad... with TOFU in it!! I can't believe it!!

Also I found an art store with actual Picasso originals! And things from Matisse, Chagall, Bacon, and Miro!!! I was shocked. I will go to the modern art museum in a bit... can't wait.

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Storkview tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-04-25:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=23&entryid=57165 2007-04-25T08:20:41Z 2007-04-25T08:20:41Z So I ended up leaving the guesthouse I was at, in favour of staying at a different hotel in town. It all started by meeting Mazen... I was at the cafe across the road from the hotel I am at now, drinking tea and writing in my journal. It started to get cold, suddenly I felt a heaviness on my shoulders, some random person has just dropped a leather jacket on my shoulders. He disappeared as I uttered ... So I ended up leaving the guesthouse I was at, in favour of staying at a different hotel in town. It all started by meeting Mazen...

I was at the cafe across the road from the hotel I am at now, drinking tea and writing in my journal. It started to get cold, suddenly I felt a heaviness on my shoulders, some random person has just dropped a leather jacket on my shoulders. He disappeared as I uttered a weak "teshekuler" in thanks. Moments later he was back, introduced himself as Mazen and we began to talk. He is a Dutch guy, originally from Syria, staying at this hotel in town. Bonus points: He speaks Turkish.

So we got to chatting, he showed me the hotel and we got to know each other. Had dinner at Edjer resaurant, owned by mutual friends of ours. We then went out for nargile, to smoke water pipe and have some drinks at a local bar. We played checkers, time flew by, and I thought I should be getting back to the guesthouse. I thought nothing of it, seeing as my guesthouse owner, Shayne, said I was free to come and go as I pleased.

So Mazen walks me back the dark streets of the gypsy quarter to the secluded guesthouse. The door is locked. Uh oh. He tells me it's okay, he can get me a free room at his hotel, no problem. Even one with the famous "stork view" rooms, (a view of the stork nests on the ruins of the roman aqueduct that go through the town.)

We tiptoe past the snoring man at reception, and I am shown to a beautiful room. In the morning I was woken by the dawn call of prayer, the eerie sound filling my cold room deliciously and lifting me out of my dreams. I opened the curtains to see the storks preening and nesting, about to switch shifts with their partners. Beautiful.

So I walk back through the gypsy quarter in the early morning, a smile on my face at the goats and cats scampering in the streets. I arrive at the guesthouse door, nervous to explain where I was the night before. The door is still locked. I don't want to wake up Shayne. I wander around, check the back door. Hmm, maybe if I can just sneak in over this wall... it's pretty low. I find an old three legged chair and lean it up against the wall. I look around, no one. Putting one foot on the centre, I place my hands and one two three, heave! Snap! The chair buckles and I drop to the ground, suddenly hearing a screaming woman. I turn around, and there she is, pointing and yelling. I try to walk away calmly, knowing there is no way I can explain myself! So I round the corner to walk away, and there is Shayne's mother! The old woman yells at her, she yells at me, I look desperate and confused, they both yell some more. I hear the word, "polis!". Suddenly Shayne bursts open the door bewildered in his pyjamas. The women yell at him, then they all yell at me... while I am calmly trying to explain the whole thing to Shayne.... oh god. I felt horrible. It is funny now.

ANYWAYS, I decided to leave the guesthouse. I felt ashamed after that. But they had been a little odd before that anyways, they locked me in alone, served me separate meals... everyone was a bit curt except Shayne's mother, bless her senile heart. So I left the next day.

Now I've been at this hotel in town, eating very well, and socializing. I learned two new styles of checkers, bought a lot of souveniers, made a lot of friends. Visited the nearest beach at sunset, yesterday went to the small greek village to taste wine and experience the quaintness. Helped Murat talk to girls online in English. It's nice, it really is.

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Selcuk tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-04-16:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=22&entryid=55421 2007-04-16T08:50:36Z 2007-04-16T08:50:36Z It turns out that after my whirling dervish travelling in the past two weeks, my bank account is looking pretty sad. Not to mention my entire body is suffering from some kind of muscle tension which causes Shayne to say "This is not small problem. Big problem. You are big problem girl." I can't help but giggle at his poor English as he pounds my shoulderblades with the side of his hand. Apparently he knows ... It turns out that after my whirling dervish travelling in the past two weeks, my bank account is looking pretty sad. Not to mention my entire body is suffering from some kind of muscle tension which causes Shayne to say "This is not small problem. Big problem. You are big problem girl." I can't help but giggle at his poor English as he pounds my shoulderblades with the side of his hand. Apparently he knows about massage. So I have decided to rest at for a few weeks, working for my stay.

By the way Shayne is the owner of the guesthouse I am at. It's on the outskirts of town, amidst the headscarved old women and hordes of screaming playing children in the hot and dusty streets. The other day I was walking 'home' and was accosted by a group of these women and children. We attempted to converse in brief words and sign language. Suddenly they noticed my hair and swarmed around, all wanting to touch, tie knots, and pull at my dreadlocks.

I've started to make friends in town, a Kurdish carpet shop ower with two prized Van cats, and a jack-of-all-trades hotel manager/police man/doctor/ambulance driver/teacher/interpreter/ taxi driver. The latter imparted on me some wisdom the other day over some Turkish tea in his hotel lounge, "There are two great pleasures in life, the first is kebab, the second is women."

Yesterday I took a day trip to the Greek Isle of Samos, it was beautiful of course and I ate a Greek salad with two American girls I met on the ferry.

I think what I will remember about this time the most is the late afternoon contrast by the low sun, sharpening the thousand glasses of tea I have drunk with an orange glow. The Artemis temple and it's turtles and flowers, flowers everywhere, taking over... picking camomile on the castle hill in my sandals, crouched like the nearby goats.

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Tea Sugar Dream tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-04-08:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=21&entryid=53973 2007-04-08T16:38:40Z 2007-04-08T16:38:40Z Oh my god. The past week has been a whirlwind of activity. First of all, I left Istanbul for Cappadocia, and took a tour and explored this area, it's got these strange rock formations caused by volcanic erruptions, over 200 ancient underground cities, and limitless caves that served as houses, early churches, and communal spaces. It was cold there though -- it snowed a few times! I took another night bus to Antalya, with a friend. ... Oh my god. The past week has been a whirlwind of activity. First of all, I left Istanbul for Cappadocia, and took a tour and explored this area, it's got these strange rock formations caused by volcanic erruptions, over 200 ancient underground cities, and limitless caves that served as houses, early churches, and communal spaces. It was cold there though -- it snowed a few times! I took another night bus to Antalya, with a friend. After I got off the bus, my neck had this huge crick, a giant knot and I was paralyzed and seriously crying from the pain. My body is in a crisis now... a Turkish masseuse helped me realize what a state I am in... I can't wait to get home and resume a healthy diet and exercise... and YOGA my god.

Anyways Antalya was nice. Planned to stay a while but ended up hopping in a rental car with Nat, a fellow dreadlocked Australian girl, one of the most incredible and inspiring people I have met so far. We looked like quite a sight, were mistaken for a lesbian couple a lot of times too! Anyways we visited ruins at Falesis and Olimpos, drove over rivers and slept in a bungalow. We stayed up late with some Canadians by the light of the Chimera's breath, eternal unexplainable flames that burst from the rock at this particular mountain.

The next day we moved to Kale Koy, saw the sunken city at Kekova, and made some friends with a boat. We climed to a castle for another one of those sunset things, and cruised through the stars, parting the black water into sprays mirroring the night sky, with phosphorus particles glowing like stars. We cuddled into the boat and slept.

Upon sunrise we bolted up, carried on to Pamukkale. Got ourselves sorted at the old internet cafe that caters to every need, and climbed up the white mountain, famous for it's calcified rock and pools of water. We slipped and slid with the best of Turkish children and families. Came back for the ruins at night time. Made for Selcuk but had to stop to sleep along the way, in a clean cheap hotel found by a random lovely Turkman.

On the fourth day we rose again, and found ourselves in Selcuk. After a turkish breakfast, saw the ruins in all their splendor. Nat left and I returned to the ruins via motorbike with some man. I can't describe the feeling I get amongst the old rocks and columns, the temples overgrown with poppies and fig trees, the vibrations of wind in the tall pines and the bushes and herbs and grasses of spring in ancient Roman cities. Life is good.

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Turkish Delight tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-04-01:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=20&entryid=52736 2007-04-01T09:13:45Z 2007-04-01T09:13:45Z Well after the farm in Italy I hopped over to Roma, planning to get to Milano for my flight the next day. It turns out all the trains were booked, so I got a ticket for the next morning at 7:30. Because of daylight savings time, I accidentally woke up not at 6, but 7... ran to the station and arrived in time to watch the doors of my train shut. I went and knocked on them ... Well after the farm in Italy I hopped over to Roma, planning to get to Milano for my flight the next day. It turns out all the trains were booked, so I got a ticket for the next morning at 7:30. Because of daylight savings time, I accidentally woke up not at 6, but 7... ran to the station and arrived in time to watch the doors of my train shut. I went and knocked on them anxiously, but no one would open them up... I stood helpless for a good two minutes before the train finally departed. So I got the next one, and cut it really close... I was convinced that I'd miss my flight. The stress of travel.

Anyways, I arrived in Istanbul and made it to my hostel... Bahaus. It's fantastic, a chilled out atmosphere, great lounge area. Very easy to meet people. Istanbul... I am really impressed. The middle eastern influence is apparent, but it is far more developed than Morocco, which surprised me. It is a liberal city, with loads of bars and clubs and a nice alternative scene. The shopping is cheap, the carpets are plenty, and the food is incredible. There is the old bazaar and spice bazaar, both full-on closed markets, selling all the silver, gold, scarves, belly-dancing costumes, rugs, spices, oils. Yet just across a bridge is taksim, which is completely modern and European style.

I've explored the city and done a lot of window shopping, visited numerous mosques, one in which we were actually allowed to witness the men's prayer (!!). I saw a whirling dervish performance, tasted turkish delight, and smoked shishah, had too many glasses of tea to count.

I am happy to once again bear witness to the eerie sound of the prayer call... yesterday we went out to some clubs and came home to the sound of the morning prayer (5:30). I leaned out the window for a brief moment to catch the dark inertia of Istanbul, pre-sunrise. Magical.

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visit to the cheese-making shepherd... tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-24:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=19&entryid=51441 2007-03-24T15:59:51Z 2007-03-24T15:59:51Z I write from Sora, a small city south of Rome. I am staying on a farmstay in the Italian countryside, there are mountains all around me and rolling hills. I can see the icing sugar covered terrain in the sky from partings in the thick fog. It has rained on and off, the sky remains murky but the grass and new blossoms of spring are succulent and bright. The vegetation is beautiful in it's diversity, from ... I write from Sora, a small city south of Rome. I am staying on a farmstay in the Italian countryside, there are mountains all around me and rolling hills. I can see the icing sugar covered terrain in the sky from partings in the thick fog. It has rained on and off, the sky remains murky but the grass and new blossoms of spring are succulent and bright. The vegetation is beautiful in it's diversity, from palm trees to pine trees, wild asparagus to wild mint.

For the last week I have been working with Antonello and his family on his farm, with the help of Camilla (Sweden), Jen (Quebec) and Molly (Alaska). We have shovelled manure, transported rabbits, dug holes, cleaned bathrooms and bedrooms, washed too many dishes to count, and eaten more pasta than I could ever imagine possible.

The girls are hilarious, we get up to all kinds of trouble. The farm really has character as well, Guiseppe, the father, speaks no english but always tries to tell us that we should "have more wine for good health", and that drinking raw eggs will only make us stronger. I love the twinkle in his eye when he shows us how he milks the goats or makes his own olive oil.

Yesterday we worked in the morning as usual, and after lunch walked into Sora to use the internet. We went on a late afternoon hike to this castle overlooking Sora. As we climbed the mountain it appeared seemingly out of nowhere, a sturdy fortress with thick stone walls and winding staircases. We sat on the roof and stared at the view. Afterwards Antonello took us out for Italian pizza... as he says, "Everything in Italy is about food."

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Tuscany Trains tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-14:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=18&entryid=50006 2007-03-14T14:27:54Z 2007-03-14T14:27:54Z I have landed in Rome. I arrived at a hostel I had chosen, sans booking. I had walked miles, I'm sure. They didn't have a bed, and the manager sat on my new sunglasses. C'est la vie! I got reimbursed for the glasses and offered a good deal to stay there tomorrow night. Life works. I spent some time in Firenze, visited a pile of churches and saw much art. The statue of David ... I have landed in Rome. I arrived at a hostel I had chosen, sans booking. I had walked miles, I'm sure. They didn't have a bed, and the manager sat on my new sunglasses. C'est la vie! I got reimbursed for the glasses and offered a good deal to stay there tomorrow night. Life works.

I spent some time in Firenze, visited a pile of churches and saw much art. The statue of David was beautiful, of course, but I am sick of renaissance art -- how many images of the virgin and child or distinguished noblemen will it take for my mind to shut down? I saw a strange mimed Baroque comedy with a Texan -- great fun. Anyways Firenze had some beautiful parks and quaint cafes, in between the throngs of tourists.

I followed these throngs, to the Cinque Terre, a UNESCO world heritage site, five tiny mountanous coastal towns with hiking trails in between them that are truly stunning. And then, the throngs led me to Siena, where the buildings glow with a dirty pink shade and everyone sits in a main piazza in the sun, just chilling.

The throngs of tourists... I dislike being a tourist, though I am one. Is this a paradox? I believe so. I am all supporting of travel and seeing the world, but each person that visits a place puts a certain amount of detriment on the place, dilluting the culture and subtly taking away from the thing that makes the place something to see. I am conscious of my own doing, each time I buy a postcard, or fail to speak the local language when asking for help.

On the other hand, tourists support the country and it's economy. I struggle to find a happy medium in this problem with so many sides... how can I travel and not just be one of the dumb, gaping tourists? Or is this inevitable?

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Barcelona to Florence tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-08:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=17&entryid=48976 2007-03-08T13:22:36Z 2007-03-08T13:22:36Z Well I did the Barcelona thing after a 12 hour train ride. The hostel I stayed in was massive and business-like. As usual I met a cool crew to fool around with. I went out a bit, and have to say that the Barcelona nightlife isn't everything I was told it would be. I still had some fun and danced, met a Spanish circus acrobat at one club! Life is random. Las Ramblas is the main ... Well I did the Barcelona thing after a 12 hour train ride. The hostel I stayed in was massive and business-like. As usual I met a cool crew to fool around with. I went out a bit, and have to say that the Barcelona nightlife isn't everything I was told it would be. I still had some fun and danced, met a Spanish circus acrobat at one club! Life is random.

Las Ramblas is the main kind of pedestrian street in the old town. It's filled with cafes, stalls selling fresh flowers, and scores of shops set up selling pets; they have turtles, iguanas, mice, rabbits, chickens, doves, fish, ferrets, and everything in between. Even some animals I could not identify. There are no-legged beggars and guys selling beer illegally in between the throngs of well/groomed northern European tourists. Also in the square are people dressed in outlandish costumes, those statue/people street performers. One guy is dressed in black, face hidden, cape flowing as if he is not alive.... then when an unsuspecting tourist passes by, he screams and jumps at them. I don't know how he makes a living.

Barcelona is quite interesting. Architecturally fantastic; if you are bored look up Antonio Gaudi on google images, and you will see what I see. His buildings are so rounded and colourful and just add a feel of fantasy to the city when you stumble upon them.

Last night I didn't sleep a wink, I stayed up with some Australians, an American girl and the hostel bartender. I had to catch a 3:00am bus to the airport and my alarm clock died long ago. I don't even own a watch anymore. So I flew into Pisa, saw the LEANING TOWER. It was pretty in the morning light when none of the tourist booths were open and I was the only one with a camera. Then hopped a train to Florence, and here I am, in Italy. It has a really different feel. And the food is great, veggie friendly and not so ham-oriented like Spain and Portugal.

By the way on the train I think I saw some kind of an angel. An angel in babouches.

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Alcazar tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-03-02:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=16&entryid=47933 2007-03-02T20:39:58Z 2007-03-02T20:39:58Z I am currently in Sevilla, and today has been a collection of deja-vus from the brief amount of time I spent here two years ago on the sightseeing trip I did of Andalucia. Today I walked a lot and followed the scent of my memories, sniffing out a familiar cafe and shoestore, I could almost see Emily and I gleefully eating strange salads and buying 10 Euro boots. I saw some flamenco again, this time raw and real. Ate ... I am currently in Sevilla, and today has been a collection of deja-vus from the brief amount of time I spent here two years ago on the sightseeing trip I did of Andalucia. Today I walked a lot and followed the scent of my memories, sniffing out a familiar cafe and shoestore, I could almost see Emily and I gleefully eating strange salads and buying 10 Euro boots.

I saw some flamenco again, this time raw and real. Ate the tapas, drank the local drink at the regular watering holes. We found a club that was really happening and I got a chance to shake off some tension.

I also visited the Alcazar today, a moorish palace in the heart of the town. It was absolutely beautiful, from room to room, eyes captured by the tile, woodwork, handpainted ceilings and domed doorways. Suddenly I entered the garden, and the beauty struck me so that I cried. I am going back tomorrow, to wander the empty rooms and manicured gardens alone, pretending I am a princess.

I am so incredibly in love with the moorish past, Morocco and Andalucia and the trail of Arabs from the east. The architecture, the culture, the intensity and the power of man and woman. The sexuality and sensuality unlike anything I´ve seen in the west.

Over the past week I travelled from Lisbon to Lagos, where I laid on the cliffs and the beach. Some friends and I rented a car and drove to the most western point of Europe, we settled in a cave on a cliffside overlooking the ocean and had port and cheese at sunset.

The next day a disturbing thing happened to me and I temporarily lost faith in men. I moved on to Faro, which was quaint but uninteresting. I had trouble sleeping because there was literally an orchestra practising right nextdoor to my room -- what are the odds. Anyways, came back to Spain and felt at home again. Spain is a breath of fresh air for me, it is as foreign for me as anywhere else but I really feel it.

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Com licenca tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-24:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=15&entryid=46578 2007-02-24T13:30:53Z 2007-02-24T13:30:53Z Porto was a nice town. I spent a lot of time there walking around the city, windowshopping and gaping at the old buildings. There is a nice feel to the place, the older buildings are not restored so cracks, weathering and moss adds a really interesting element to everything. I visited the beach, crossed the river and learned all about port wine and sampled some; climbed and descended many a hill. I met some fabulous people ... Porto was a nice town. I spent a lot of time there walking around the city, windowshopping and gaping at the old buildings. There is a nice feel to the place, the older buildings are not restored so cracks, weathering and moss adds a really interesting element to everything. I visited the beach, crossed the river and learned all about port wine and sampled some; climbed and descended many a hill. I met some fabulous people there and had a lot of laughs over wine or dinner in the hostel.

On my last night we went in search of the mysterious "party on a boat". We ended up drinking at a local cafe bar until 1, and then danced to Portuguese music on a boat until morning. The Polish guy and I had been talking for hours and the others left without us so we walked back, when we arrived at the hostel the "birds were playing".

The next night I stayed in Ovar in search of Carnaval, missing a big parade by a few hours. I headed on to Lisbon where everyone was dressed up that night in the Barrio Alto, every kind of mask or costume. Barhopped with Shakirah, Daniel and Pedro, the former being Brazillian. It was a fun night. The next day a carnaval parade. I saw the monuments, visited Cascais and Sintra for the shore and the moorish castle. Took a Portuguese class, tried the green wine.

Went to an exhibition of modern film art here, saw Belem and many of the beautiful things hiding in Lisbon´s seven hills. The city is calm and beautiful, the people friendly. It is very modern, but you van still hear the echoes of fado drifting from a lone guitar in some small plazas, and see some old buildings that illustrate their age.

Time goes on, I go on. To the Algarve!

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Porto tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-15:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=14&entryid=44889 2007-02-15T18:45:53Z 2007-02-15T18:45:53Z Well. Left Chefchaouen for Fes, in awaiting of the flight to London. which was cancelled and re-booked. Fes turned out to be a nice city, confusing medina, but brilliant place to do some good old Moroccan people-watching. It was raining but enjoyable. It´s a very old medieval city, lots of corridors, plazas and spots to discover. I really liked it, despite the hassle, the hustle and bustle, and it´s reputation. In London I visted Charlie, ... Well. Left Chefchaouen for Fes, in awaiting of the flight to London. which was cancelled and re-booked. Fes turned out to be a nice city, confusing medina, but brilliant place to do some good old Moroccan people-watching. It was raining but enjoyable. It´s a very old medieval city, lots of corridors, plazas and spots to discover. I really liked it, despite the hassle, the hustle and bustle, and it´s reputation.

In London I visted Charlie, a friend I met in Marrakech. Stayed with him at his student residence. Explored the city, went to Oxford for a night. Didn´t find too much excitment but it was a beautiful place, very grand and old and spectacular. A lot more friendly and welcoming than I had expected. I got sick again and was bed-ridden for a while.

I flew to Portugal this morning, early early. I´m staying at a brilliant hostel and wondering what to do with the next few days and next few years of my life. The Portuguese, so far, are quiet, polite, and very short. The language sounds bizarre, like a mix of Spanish, German, French and Arabic.

I do miss Morocco. And home. Something is missing. Will someone honestly please join me for the remaining 3-4 months!? I need a companion.

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The land of a thousand Mohammeds tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-02-04:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=13&entryid=42733 2007-02-04T13:33:43Z 2007-02-04T13:33:43Z I am in Chefchaouen, a beautiful town in the Rif mountains in the north. It's got blue buildings and sloping streets, full of colour and life and interesting people, badly spoken Spanish and French, nice cafes and beautiful views. And lots and lots of hash. I left Essaouira and went to Tahgazoute, then to Mirhleft, both places on the coast south of Essaouira. Small towns, not a lot happening. Met some south African surfers and laid on ... I am in Chefchaouen, a beautiful town in the Rif mountains in the north. It's got blue buildings and sloping streets, full of colour and life and interesting people, badly spoken Spanish and French, nice cafes and beautiful views. And lots and lots of hash.

I left Essaouira and went to Tahgazoute, then to Mirhleft, both places on the coast south of Essaouira. Small towns, not a lot happening. Met some south African surfers and laid on the beaches. I started to feel a bit out of place, and decided to head north to Marrakech and see where the wind took me.

It took me to Casablanca. I didn't like it. The weather was horrible, the city is ugly and built up, there is extreme affluence and extreme poverty... shacks built up from scrap metal and wood and cloth in any area not already built upon. Children playing in the mud and piles of rubbish beside office buildings like they would in a sunny country field. Casablanca is raw.

The past few days have been a series of misfortunate events.
I left my passport at the youth hostel in Casa and had to backtrack, got screwed out of some money by a man who I thought was sincerely helping me. My shoes got soaked, my small bag ripped apart, I missed the bus, and was thoroughly stripped of all dignity and emotional security by two women who completely insulted myself, my posessions, my country and my race.

I've done a lot of bussing, walking, worrying and crying. But I think I can relax now and chill in Chefchaouen... it's just beautiful. My friends from NZ and Australia and some from Essaouira are coming up to meet me here tomorrow.

The more I travel the more I realize my own personality... how emotionally fragile I am. How I need the company of others. Sometimes I feel like I am throwing myself into the world blindfolded, and it's overwhelming. Everyone I meet is shocked that I am so young and alone in this place... they tell me I am brave and courageous. It's either this or stupidity that brought me here. But alas, life goes on... and I gain confidence and ease in living day by day. I am surprised that I can actually do this and not fall to pieces. I am becoming more optimistic, more positive, more determined. I fall down so much and get back up again. In the words of Ainsley Platt, "Just get on with it."

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The Ocean tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-01-16:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=12&entryid=39354 2007-01-16T14:38:46Z 2007-01-16T14:38:46Z The ocean is motion -- it isn't a noun, a single thing. It's a concept, a moving and changing idea. The town where I am is perched on the coast of Africa, welcoming the Atlantic sea to flow into it's harbour. It's beautiful, the breeze, the sand, the waves. I feel it taking over me. The ocean has been very powerful for me so far on this trip, a symbol of change and life and the ... The ocean is motion -- it isn't a noun, a single thing. It's a concept, a moving and changing idea. The town where I am is perched on the coast of Africa, welcoming the Atlantic sea to flow into it's harbour. It's beautiful, the breeze, the sand, the waves. I feel it taking over me. The ocean has been very powerful for me so far on this trip, a symbol of change and life and the impermanence of everything. Every day I spend here I feel myself becoming more a part of the beach, the ocean... my clothes are fading to neutral greys and beige and browns. I taste the salt on my lips.

I have rented an apartment here in Essaouira. I am having this marvellous love affair with the guy I mentioned before... I'm not going to hide it. It's exotic and romantic and it feels great.

This week has been beautiful, relaxed and free. A vacation from my trip, really. Morocco to me is almost a paradise... behind it's sometimes scary image. I could live here if I was never alone. I want to come back again and bring a friend, to walk alone in these streets as a girl makes it difficult to keep one's head up. The emotions I have here are so intense.

I have all kinds of notions for my next stop on this trip... I am filled with ideas, imaginations, worries and hopes. It's wonderful; it's life.

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The Colours of Africa tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-01-11:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=11&entryid=38273 2007-01-11T13:42:41Z 2007-01-11T13:42:41Z I don't even know how I will be able to describe the past week. It's been a whirlwind of activity, new faces and cultures. The city of Marrakech is a bizarre mixture of old and new, local and foreign. The souks, winding streets of shops filled with colourful jewlery, artisan crafts, clothing rugs and everything beautiful have held a lot of my attention. It is for shopping, socializing, learning. I have learned about berber herbal remedies, cloth ... I don't even know how I will be able to describe the past week. It's been a whirlwind of activity, new faces and cultures.

The city of Marrakech is a bizarre mixture of old and new, local and foreign. The souks, winding streets of shops filled with colourful jewlery, artisan crafts, clothing rugs and everything beautiful have held a lot of my attention. It is for shopping, socializing, learning. I have learned about berber herbal remedies, cloth dying, woodworking, and how to wrap a proper headscarf. I have tasted the freshly squeezed orange juice and cooked tajines of Jamaa el fnaa.

I visited a hamman, a local bathhouse where you are washed, scrubbed, pumiced, and the optional massage. I spent new years eve in a taxi with three friends, listening to the countdown in arabic and smoking cigars, celebrating with the driver.

I also spent a few nights in Agadir, went up to the old Kasbah, dipped my toes in the ocean, saw a beautiful sunset. Met so many amazing people, the locals there are so friendly, we were taken to a secretive lounge with live music and shishah... good company. We played pool with some Moroccans, visited a goat-covered river valley where we were invited in by six men to a fire-cooked tajine.

I also travelled to the Ourika valley and hiked up the snowy mountain, saw the seven waterfalls. I was not feeling good emotionally; I cried up and down the mountain.

Now I am in Essaouira, still sick and alone; however I have met a beautiful man who I feel as if I have known forever. We talked in his shop all afternoon, he took me to the beach and out for tea. I left my doc martins on the ocean shore, they are free for any person or the sea to adopt. It was finally time. Four years of memory, I feel as if I am somewhat reborn.

By the way, I am not answering emails, french arabic keyboards are nightmarish. But I am reading them all, keep it coming.

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Diamond in the Rough tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-12-30:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=10&entryid=36765 2006-12-30T23:15:53Z 2006-12-30T23:15:53Z So I'm in Morocco. I bussed from Orgiva to Algeciras yesterday, and took the ferry. It was stressful, going through the whole bit. The ferry ride was long and boring, I was anxious about where I was going to stay in Tangier that night... as I know the city can be a big ripoff. So while exiting the ferry, I had forgotten to get my passport stamped, I trudged back into the boat and waited with ... So I'm in Morocco. I bussed from Orgiva to Algeciras yesterday, and took the ferry. It was stressful, going through the whole bit. The ferry ride was long and boring, I was anxious about where I was going to stay in Tangier that night... as I know the city can be a big ripoff. So while exiting the ferry, I had forgotten to get my passport stamped, I trudged back into the boat and waited with some other people for an hour for the guy to come back with the stamp. I met this Norweigan guy who was traveling by car to Mali with his friend. I explained my situation and he said I could stick with them for a ride to Marrakech! Lucky lucky.

So that night was got through the hellish car insurance line, with people and cars just lined up, screaming, confusion. Some guy appointed himself as our guide, which I knew was a scam but I wasn't really interested in looking for my own accomodation in the city. So he found us an okay place, and a beautiful restaurant for dinner, food to such caliber I have never seen before in my life, gourmet, excellence. A tiny plate of sugared pumpkin, shredded cucumber in sauce, whipped red pepper, pastries, couscous with cabbage, squash, meat for the boys, cinnamin plum and oranges for dessert, and Moroccan mint tea with cookies. Five courses, brilliant service, just great fun. And the guys took the tab.

The next day we headed up early, leaving the hard hotel beds. We drove and drove, passing all manner of vehicle, 8 men packed into a tiny taxi, cars with boxes of sheep on the roof or pulled behind, people peeping out of trailers and trunks. We ate at some modern roadstop restaurant, and kept on. Suddenly, we were in Marrakech.

I left the guys, found a taxi to the railway station to meet the guy who's hostel I would be working for... but I was 3 hours early. I tried calling, phone didn't work, taxis didn't know the place. I waited 3 hours, bored and stressing, when he didn't show I tried the phone again and was told ot meet at another locale, a bus stop. I taxiied there, found it int he traffic, waited for another hour... hit on by three creepy men. The phone only took cards, I was alone and near the end of my rope. I didn't know what to do. The next guy that hit on me, I asked him if he knew the place, in vain. He did, and said he would take me there, all the while telling me about my beautiful eyes and how he would like to meet me tomorrow and all this. We walked down some dark alleys and I kept my distance, adrenaline just crazy... but eventually I saw the sign, "Hotel Riad Rahba", like water in the desert. The guy left without much hassle. It turns out the world isn't all too scary after all.

So I settled into the hostel, met two great people straight away, one of which a great German guy named Marco who showed me this internet place. <3. I love life again. And the way that spoken Arabic just rolls off the tongue, soft and strong and thick.

By the way, there is a cat at the window. I am at home.

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Further Adventures in Orgiva tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-12-18:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=9&entryid=35276 2006-12-18T16:03:37Z 2006-12-18T16:03:37Z Shanti just left for home. It hasn´t hit me yet, I know I´m really sad about it. We´ve spent two solid months together, talking only to each other, we´ve both been on top of the world and on the bottom; we have a great bond. I hope distance won´t erode it. I can´t believe Christmas is in less than a week. The consumer bombardment of seasonal carols and decorations I´m used to at home simply doesn´t exist ... Shanti just left for home. It hasn´t hit me yet, I know I´m really sad about it. We´ve spent two solid months together, talking only to each other, we´ve both been on top of the world and on the bottom; we have a great bond. I hope distance won´t erode it.

I can´t believe Christmas is in less than a week. The consumer bombardment of seasonal carols and decorations I´m used to at home simply doesn´t exist here... there are random decorations here and there, or an Xmas commercial on TV, but otherwise it really hasn´t hit me.

Lately I´ve had a whole bunch of plans that really haven´t worked out in terms of travel. I don´t really care. I have really changed my philosophy on the whole thing since I left home. It isn´t about the number of places you see, it´s the time you spend, the people you meet... the quality of the whole exerience. Travel isn´t something separate from life, it IS LIVING.

Today I had my birth chart done by a profesional astrologer from up the road. I really gained a lot of insight into my emotional self, which is on a theme of the past while of learning. The things she was able to pinpoint about my life and my personality were startlingly real and clear to me.

I´ve had a few really great days here. Chipping up garden material, planting veg, helping Ainsley with his compost heat exchange radiator... and going to Granada for a day to visit the Alhambra again. I can´t even describe how much I love the Alhambra... it´s just the whole feeling of those really ancient places. You can feel the people who have been there before, the feelings and the words that still live in the walls. Ahh.

Right now Ainsley, Claire and their two friends are decorating for the party here on Thursday, in celebration of their birthdays, and of Christmas. It should be a blast. I will stay here for Christmas at least. And THEN I have some ideas... but I won´t speak about the future, only what has already passed, because it can all change with the drop of a hat.

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Perpetual Tea-time tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-12-08:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=8&entryid=33941 2006-12-08T18:13:07Z 2006-12-08T18:13:07Z So I ended up staying with Neil for only a week. He is a nice guy, sure. Picking olives was easy work, I really didn´t mind it. I just couldn´t handle the loneliness that comes with being given work by and living with a single man 60 years my senior. He was peculiar, only burning twigs and dried orange peels in his woodstove, and living on a diet of rice, tomato, and copious amounts of red ... So I ended up staying with Neil for only a week. He is a nice guy, sure. Picking olives was easy work, I really didn´t mind it. I just couldn´t handle the loneliness that comes with being given work by and living with a single man 60 years my senior. He was peculiar, only burning twigs and dried orange peels in his woodstove, and living on a diet of rice, tomato, and copious amounts of red pepper. After the couple from Quebec left, he remarked that he must have taught them a lot about cooking. They were less impressed with him than I was, we reunited briefly in the market yesterday to talk with relief about escaping Neil´s.

I am now staying with Ainsley and Claire, the WWOOF hosts of Shanti. They have a beautiful house and garden, two guesthouses and lovely pets. They are in their fifties, and have the perfect mixture of structure and laid-back sociability in their lives. It´s delicious, Ainsley is a quirky artist and Claire an on-the-ball reflexologist.

I just came back from Baraka, the local Moroccan cafe; they serve the best falafells I´ve ever tried, and have an entire menu solely for teas. I just sat and wrote.

Last weekend I visited Beneficio again and met a lot of interesting people. A 41 year old guy from Madagascar who insisted he was a mountain elf, a couple of beautiful Czech girls, and a soulful Israeli songstress. I played with some homemade poi, we visited someone´s yurt for tea and Hebrew songs, then moved to a large teepee for Bajams, Indian chanting with guitar accompaniment.

The next day, I hitchhiked with a few other girls to Almenecar for the big market. Lots of people, lots of goods... soon the Beneficio people began to group outside MacDonalds... 4, then 7, then 15... then about 25 of us. Naturally the drumming began, then singing, guitar and flute, dancing, poi, juggling and general grooving. It was beautiful; purposeless, but passersby seemed really curious. I found a ride back, which really turned into an epic journey, with a young Spanish couple, child, dogs, and rusty van.

Over the past few days I´ve been chilling here, reading and drinking a lot of tea, just enjoying life. A few days ago I climbed up this smaller mountain in the middle of the valley, and I could see snowcaps to the north, and the ominous blue mountains to the south, the snaking roads along the rolling hills to the east, with the sun high in the sky and wind in my hair... okay it´s beautiful.

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Beneficio, Beneficio, Beneficiooooao tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-11-27:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=7&entryid=32727 2006-11-27T17:32:55Z 2006-11-27T17:32:55Z So I´ve left the Canaries. Flew to Granada. I was with Shanti in the city. It took us a while to find out hostel, but we got settled in quickly once we entered the place. It was beautiful, and full of beautiful people. We sat at the bar and met two irish hippie guys and a californian who were rocking the place. Soon, beer was drank and faces were painted, drums and reggae was ... So I´ve left the Canaries. Flew to Granada. I was with Shanti in the city. It took us a while to find out hostel, but we got settled in quickly once we entered the place. It was beautiful, and full of beautiful people. We sat at the bar and met two irish hippie guys and a californian who were rocking the place. Soon, beer was drank and faces were painted, drums and reggae was played. We met people from Autralia, Brasil, Britain, Panama... it was great. Ronan, one of the Irish guys talked to me for a few hours and gave me a really neat necklace he made.

The next day we awoke to a free breakfast, and set out on the town. We visited all the main sights of the city and explored. Back at the hostel it was another party night with the same three guys and more people all over. There was poi, chess, techno, and all kinds of languages... and more face paint. The next day Shanti and I walked a bit in the morning and took the bus to Orgiva.

In the town, we found our respective hosts. Neil met me on a bike and showed me the market which was closing up just then... I have never seen so many dreadlocks in my LIFE. This place is packed with the old hip and the new age, with three ¨communes¨. So to Neil´s house. A Quebec couple was there, they have left now. Neil is old but spunky and young inside. I´m picking olives for work now.

On Sdaturday I was in the town and met this guy I had met at the hostel in Granada... long story short he invited me to visit the commune of Beneficio in the mountains. We got a ride up in a group. There were crazy people and crooks in the beginning, but eventually I made my way to the main teepee full of so many people singing, drumming, playing guitar and flute, love and fire and energy... loved it. Met a gorgeous Swiss guy. aThe next morning, I happened upong Nerya, a spiritual teacher from Israel staying with a family in Orgiva... he took me to visit a few people and showed me around the place. It´s so huge... teepees, tents, domes, and permanent houses all over. Gardens, trees, mountains, streams, a freshwater spring. Nerya and I talked so much about spirituality and life, we really connected. I felt so so calm and centred with him. We got a ride back to the town together at dark.

Beneficio really has opened up my world... I can´t wait to visit again, and to see Nerya at the market on thursday. I have met so many people, so much language and individuality and uniqueness. So much power and simplicity. This entry isn´t reflective, it´s a summary, because I haven´t had time to think on all I have learned and discovered. I love people. I have felt and seen the young and beautiful and real over the past week, and I really believe in people right now.

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God and his MegaGun tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-11-15:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=6&entryid=31454 2006-11-16T07:50:45Z 2006-11-16T07:50:45Z My daily life here pretty much goes like this, on a weekday; Wake up around 7:30, eat breakfast. Make some tea and sit outside or wander about. We get our boots, work gloves, and clothes from the ´Boutique´ (toolshed), and work begins at 8:30. We work until about 11:00 or 12:00 if it isn´t too hot, then take a break for some homemade lemon or maraquya juice. Resume work in about 15 minutes, and go until ... DSCF5785.jpg
My daily life here pretty much goes like this, on a weekday; Wake up around 7:30, eat breakfast. Make some tea and sit outside or wander about. We get our boots, work gloves, and clothes from the ´Boutique´ (toolshed), and work begins at 8:30. We work until about 11:00 or 12:00 if it isn´t too hot, then take a break for some homemade lemon or maraquya juice. Resume work in about 15 minutes, and go until about 1:30. I usually shower, and then we have lunch, which Roser has been cooking for us... always delicious vegetarian food, she is really a great cook. After lunch, I try to sleep for about an hour, but I get frustrated and usually eat some more lunch leftovers. Then I paint until dark outside... make some tea and talk or play cards with Shanti until 9:00, and I go to bed to write or sew for a few hours until sleep.

Lately Shanti and I have been helping Alfredo built these two long strips of garden. It´s mostly shovelling and picking rocks... there never seems to be enough soil, and there are always too many rocks. When the days are sunny, it´turns into really hard work. Heat is something I am especially adverse to, so it´s a challenge to shovel for four hours. And the flies.

Shanti and I have been talking so much. I can´t believe we have so much to talk about, but I guess that is the nature of the human beast; chattering. We have a lot of jokes together now. One day last week we took the bus to Las Palmas. We waited for the first one for an hour, then took about five different buses, which must have taken an hour and half more. We spent the afternoon trying to find this beach that I had been to once before, but we had the hardest time... finally we got there, had some Lebanese food, and just laid in the sand for a while.

I was thinking about this blog, and how I´ve written in it so far. It seems like a fairytale almost, to me. I´ve mostly chosen to talk about the good things, because those are the ones I like to dwell on. But, this place has it´s downsides, and I amd still me. Life, I think, doesn´t really get better or worse, we just react differently. I could fill this blog with talk about the rats and barking dogs that keep me up at night, the ticks and the dog crap that are everywhere, or the day I got heatstroke. But that really doesn´t give an accurate picture of the place, or what I feel is important, I can´t write everything. I suppose this is just a disclaimer; I´m not in heaven, I´m just changing the background of a fairly ordinary life.

I have a flight booked to Granada on Tuesday. Shanti has one to the same place on the same day, but we are not flying together. She´s still awaiting responses to find hew next wwoof host, while I already have mine, in a town south of Granada called Orgiva. It´s owned by a British man named Neil, who I have already talked to on the phone and been charmed by his accent.

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The Healing Power of Scythes tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-11-03:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=5&entryid=30140 2006-11-03T18:34:42Z 2006-11-03T18:34:42Z Life is so random. Shanti is the new WWOOFer who has also come to stay with Roser and Alfredo. She is a slender, dark-featured young girl with bright, soulful eyes... (you can tell I have been reading fantasy novels). She is 21, and from Winnipeg! Both of our parents are teachers... we have some other shocking similarities as well. She is very down to earth, and open... she has only been here two days ... DSCF5557.jpg
Life is so random. Shanti is the new WWOOFer who has also come to stay with Roser and Alfredo. She is a slender, dark-featured young girl with bright, soulful eyes... (you can tell I have been reading fantasy novels). She is 21, and from Winnipeg! Both of our parents are teachers... we have some other shocking similarities as well. She is very down to earth, and open... she has only been here two days and we have talked very frankly to one another about some very personal stuff. It feels great to have another young person here to explore and do things with. Today she taught me some guitar chords after a fabulous session of cutting away the tall cactus hedging in towards an area cleared for a chick coop to be built.

Recently, I have explored Telde, which was kind of a seedy town. I visited some very old churches and streets, and got chills down my spine from the sense of history in these places. I learned that construction workers and toy stores are the same everywhere. I´ve also seen from a higher point, the volcano on who´s outer side we are on. There is a single house in the middle of the volcano, where a man lives with his cow.

I´ve done a lot of work clearing and lifting and levelling and piling. Physical work is so good for my body, mind and soul. It seems so strange because I am so arts and intellectual oriented, but at this point in time I would rather be a labourer for money.

I think I am ready to move on to my next WWOOF place, which is an olive and almond farm in Orgiva, which is south of Granada. It sounds very exciting, but I would also like to enjoy some time here with Shanti. I think she may want to move to Southern Spain as well. I finally recieved my new bank card, so I have freedom to do as I please... however I will not speak before I have money in my hands.

I hope everyone is doing well. Email me if you want to chat further, for the moment I have good internet access. And also, I would like to add a sentiment epressed well by my well-travelled friend, Graham S. If you find yourself wishing you could travel, or that you were me, or you are envious of any of this, then have it for yourself! Travel! Come with me! Meet me in Spain! By all means, do it if you wish it.

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A Gift from the Clouds tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-10-27:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=4&entryid=29001 2006-10-31T19:33:21Z 2006-10-26T15:21:34Z Water, water, everywhere. It´s in us, in our food, our air, and completely essential to the manifestation of life. So simple, and so important. It is often used to represent our emotions; it can be calm and reflective, or turbulent and agressive. A heavy rain can bring either disaster or the most beautiful blessing. Right now it is the latter. It´s so different because in Canada, rain comes often and is usually something that ... DSCF5629.jpg
Water, water, everywhere. It´s in us, in our food, our air, and completely essential to the manifestation of life. So simple, and so important. It is often used to represent our emotions; it can be calm and reflective, or turbulent and agressive. A heavy rain can bring either disaster or the most beautiful blessing. Right now it is the latter. It´s so different because in Canada, rain comes often and is usually something that inhibits activity; ¨The picnic is cancelled, it´s raining.¨

Here in the Canaries it is so precious, so joyful when the sky gives an offering of rain to the plants and the animals. The thick layer of dusy covering the houses, leaves, and animals is washed away, and the plants swell with greenery. Roser and Alfredo have built some kind of system, which recyles the water that goes down the sink drains and from the washing machine, to be put into permanent hose systems, which water the plants overnight, and to be used from the hoses. Water, ye precious commodity.

It seems that lately in life, the big lesson for me, the big thing to learn and to adopt, is moderation. It is very interesting, this idea of rain. At the same time that it is such a blessing here, too much is always a bad thing. The Barranco, this area was are in, is like a long crack, a valley between two tall and steep mountain ranges. The valley area is only the width of a road in most places, so all the houses are on the mountainsides. And when the rains come, there is always a danger of a river washing through the Barranco, flooding away the cars and sheds parked along the valley.

Over the past two days I have worked hard, my project being to dig up this tremendously overgrown garden that was planted with tall pots into the soil... there were about 50 of such pots, grown over by vines, grass, and a few trees taller than I was. At first it seemed so futile, literally scratching at the earth with a pronged tool, but soon I was deep into the soil, and I have been covered in it since yesterday morning. It was satisfying. I thought a lot about life and truth, and my mind has cleared, just as I have cleared this little patch of land on such a big earth, ready to be filled with some seed and growth.

Also worth mentioning is a dance group I attended with Roser, they practise traditional Canarian, Macedonian, and all kinds of folk dance. I didn´t understand the words, but I learned the steps... I love dancing, I really do.
¨Dancing is what to do,
Dancin´s is when I think of you.
Dancin´s what clears my soul,
Dancin´s what makes me whole¨

-Dancing, by Aaron Smith (feat. Luvli)

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How I lost all my money tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-10-18:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=2&entryid=28006 2006-10-31T19:31:59Z 2006-10-22T08:48:42Z So I fly to London, Heathrow Airport. Arrive there at 6:00pm or so. I sleep in the airport overnight, behind this make-your-own-business-card-machine. I wake up, stretch, pack up my stuff, wash up, and head up to the confusing mass of check in counters. This airport is so disorganized. I ask three people who tell me three different places to go. I try using an automatic check-in counter. You need to insert a debit ... DSCF5516.jpg
So I fly to London, Heathrow Airport. Arrive there at 6:00pm or so. I sleep in the airport overnight, behind this make-your-own-business-card-machine. I wake up, stretch, pack up my stuff, wash up, and head up to the confusing mass of check in counters. This airport is so disorganized. I ask three people who tell me three different places to go. I try using an automatic check-in counter. You need to insert a debit card, for verification that it is you. No problem, right? I scour through my back, looking for my money belt with €100 in it, and my bank card. It´s not to be found. I frantically open my big pack, search it through. No dice. I run around the airport, freaking out as only Angelas do best. I retraced all my steps, asked two lost and founds... nada.

I think it may be in my big backback still, there is a slim chance, but it is checked in baggage. When I get to Madrid, I check, and it´s gone. I emailled my dad, letting him know. I feel like a loser. Last I saw the thing was on the plane to London... can´t think about it now.

Anyways, so my plans to explore the city of Madrid for the two whole days and nights I had between my flights to there and the Canary Islands was thwarted. I slept in the airport. I only had €3 too my name. I lived on bread and water, pretended to peruse the expensive airport shops, read all the things I brought with me, wrote in my journal. I did everything except sleep. It was hard. People everywhere.

Last night, at around 6:00, this guy began talking to me. An old man, about 60. We were sitting at nearby benches and he asked me to watch his stuff. When he came back, we had a convo. He lives in Cancun, Mexico, born in Alabama, going to Paris for a poker competition. His name is Rageb. I tell him some vague outlines of my travel plans. He says he has some friends in Paris and Turkey and Germany, gives me his email address. I trade him books. I see him later, and he asks to buy me a cafe and something to eat. OF COURSE I say yes. We get talking about art and history, this book he wants to write. Then he tells me I should come and visit him in Cancun. He says, if I don´t feel safe, I can even bring my mom down. He´ll pay for it. He also invites me to stay at a hotel that night, with him. Just as friends, he says. He´s telling me I am brave, wonderful and intelligent, I remind him of girls he knew from the ´60s. He seemed nice enough, but that means nothing. He said he understood if I was uncomfortable accepting his offers, and I could decline.

So I did, obviously. But I still have his email address. I think I will drop him a line and ask him about some of these friends he has... he seems to know a lot fo wealthy families, form what I gather. He said if I went to Turkey, he could get a friend to find someone to travel with me, to make sure I am safe.

So I´ll drop him a line, someday. What harm could an email do?

So anyways, I finally arrived at the Gran Canaria today, and this place is a paradise. Roser y Alfredo are so wonderful and nice. I have the house to myself while they are out with other obligations. There are two dogs here, 5 cats. It´s this open style house built into a hill, with little trails and rustic stairs connecting separate rooms, all crowded with tropical plants, palm trees and big cacti. There are these free-range chickens running around down the mountain, and tiny towns tucked away in the hills, with winding roads from place to place. Amazing.

So now, to get my money back. This isn´t going to be that simple. Another thing, I packed way too much.

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Life in the Barranco tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-10-22:/blog/?domain=ange&thisblog_entryid=3&entryid=28463 2006-10-31T19:32:48Z 2006-10-22T08:46:13Z The past few days have been great. Life is very relaxed here, and time flies by very quickly. Roser and I have had so many long talks, about society, people, her country, our lives, emotion and just.... life. Last night was one such talk, joined in by an Argentinian man who had come to see this video of Krishnamurti, a wise Indian man. The video posed all kinds of topics for discussion... we mostly talked in ... DSCF5566.jpg
The past few days have been great. Life is very relaxed here, and time flies by very quickly. Roser and I have had so many long talks, about society, people, her country, our lives, emotion and just.... life. Last night was one such talk, joined in by an Argentinian man who had come to see this video of Krishnamurti, a wise Indian man. The video posed all kinds of topics for discussion... we mostly talked in English, which was a little difficult at times for Fernando, but worked for me!

A large part of the work I am doing is watering the many trees and plants, since the soil is so sandy, and everythig is growing on this hillside we are on. Avocado, mango, mandarin, goyabo, peach, plum and banana trees are all so new and exciting to me. We also do a lot of cooking, making soups, jams, and big lunches, which is the main meal of the day for the Spanish.

I went to the south part of the island a few days ago, and swam in the ocean on this very tourist infested beach. The water was quite warm, and I got a very good look at the crazy tourism.

Today I have a cold. It has been growing in me over the last few days, and last night I was unable to sleep well, getting cold and hot flashes. This is the delayed effects of last week´s airport adventures, no doubt.

Being here, and talking with Roser and Fernando last night, and thinking and reading has really made me question my direction in life. University? Ahck! It seems to be so contrary to everything I am begining to learn at this stage in my life, not just on this trip, either. The value of moving slowly, eating well, leading a simple life.... being open to the value of new experiences without pressure or stress. Ah well. Cést la vie.

By the way, listen to Bloodsport, by Sneaker Pimps. I have had it in my head for a week,

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